Destinations & Culture

Abruzzo, Italy

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Every village has a festival for one ingredient. Here is how to find yours.

6 min read

Every single Village in easily has a festival dedicated to a specific ingredient. So we have, we call them sagre.

Silvia Colloca

Silvia Colloca was explaining Italy to someone who had never been, and she reached for food. Every single village, she said, has a festival dedicated to one ingredient, and the festivals are called sagre. She named them off like a roll call: the onion, the broad bean, the potato, pasta e fagioli. Her point was that Italian food obsession does not sit in restaurants. It sits in village squares, on a particular weekend, around one pot.

That raises a question any home cook planning a visit will ask. What is a sagra, and how do you find one in a small village? The short answer is that a sagra is a rustic local food festival built around a single ingredient, and finding one is a matter of timing your visit and asking the right people. The longer answer is below, and it explains why Abruzzo is a good place to go looking.

01

What a sagra is

A sagra is a village food festival dedicated to one specific ingredient. Silvia describes them as very rustic, and the ingredients she names show what that means in practice. There is a sagra of the onion and a sagra of the broad bean. There are festivals for the potato and for pasta e fagioli, the pasta and bean dish that Italian home cooks know well. Her words for the range of them: "you name it we got it."

The single ingredient is the organising idea. Where a restaurant menu offers a spread of dishes, a sagra puts the whole village behind one thing, so you taste an onion or a bean cooked the way that place has cooked it for years. For a home cook this is the useful part. You see how one humble ingredient is handled by the people who grow and eat it, and you can take that straight back to your own kitchen.

Silvia is clear that these are not events designed for visitors. They belong to the village. That is why they feel different from the food experiences sold in the big cities, and it is also why they reward a little planning, which is where the next section picks up.

02

Plan your visit around one

Silvia’s advice is to let the seasons guide you. If there’s a particular ingredient or dish you love, plan your visit around its sagra, a local food festival celebrating the region’s seasonal produce and culinary traditions. If your dates are already set, find out which nearby villages are celebrating what while you’re there.

In June, the village of Raiano in Abruzzo’s Peligna Valley celebrates the arrival of cherry season with its annual Maggiolata, a lively festival of fresh cherries, flower-covered floats, traditional music and dancing. It’s a wonderful example of how an entire village comes together to celebrate a seasonal ingredient,

03

Why Abruzzo is a good place to look

Silvia's family is from Abruzzo, a mountainous region east of Rome with, in her words, an incredible coastline. She goes back every year to her mother's village for one to two weeks and has done so since she was little, which makes her a reliable witness to what the region is like day to day.

Her broader argument is about where authentic Italy lives. Once you travel away from the touristy spots of the main cities, she says, you encounter a more authentic Italy that is not necessarily designed for mass tourism, and she thinks that is a good thing: it is still friendly and still functional. That is the setting in which a sagra makes sense. These are festivals for the people who live there, so they tend to sit in the smaller places that big-city itineraries skip.

Abruzzo has mountains and a coastline, and there is a bike track in Abruzzo that runs parallel to the sea, which she calls stunning. So a village festival can be one day among several. You can ride the coast one morning and find a bean festival that evening.

04

What to skip, and what to ask for

Silvia is direct about what does not live up to its billing. The sagra lets you immerse yourself in the local village experience. It's the village square with a cook and a pot and neighbours who have turned up for the same thing. If you are choosing between experiences for a short stay, the sagra is worth weighing.

Silvia points to the places that do deliver: cooking classes in rural kitchens with local hosts, markets, and the olive groves and wineries around them. A sagra fits that company. It is food made by people who live where it is eaten, which is what she keeps returning to when she describes the Italy she wants people to see.

What is a sagra in Italy?

A sagra is a rustic food festival held in an Italian village and dedicated to one specific ingredient. Silvia Colloca mentions festivals for the onion, the broad bean, the potato and pasta e fagioli.

How do I find a food festival in a small Italian village?

Start with your travel dates, because which sagra you can attend depends on when you go.

When is the best time to visit Italy for village food festivals?

These festivals happen throughout the year, so it’s worth exploring what’s on in the local villages and surrounding towns during your visit. You never know what delicious celebration you might stumble upon.

Silvia returns to Abruzzo

More from Silvia Colloca on Italy, village by village

Silvia shares what she knows about Abruzzo, Italian home cooking and the villages her family comes from. Follow her to see where she goes next.

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